whales, horses, and Reykjavik (journey to iceland, part 4)

Whales of Iceland was a great museum. Actually, almost all of the museums we’ve done here were excellent. Modern, technologically advanced, super interactive. This exhibit in particular was great. They let me touch the whales which were squishier than you’d think! Felt very convincing, not that I’ve ever touched a whale.

Kramer was on the street too. The street art here—delightful. Beautiful churches! Everything here is so old, just ancient compared to things we see at home.

I’m also throwing in a picture of two of my cousin’s hair that I braided for our dinner out because it turned out amazing, and I’m proud of that.

One other random addition, the Star Wars bathroom of Cafe Babalu. This place had great reviews, but the service wasn’t good (mean guy at the counter) and the food was only ok. We just got dessert.

The Icelandic Horse was a HUGE highlight. The staff here was super experienced and made a bunch of novices like us feel safe. My horse’s name was Kambur. He was adorable but nippy. Turned out at the end that they are all just a nibbly breed; as soon as they let them free, they all started chewing on each other’s necks. It was hilarious! They are also huge herding horses, and I’ve never ridden on a horse who wanted to be so close to his buddies. It wasn’t like our boots were brushing other riders—our legs were pressed flat against the horse beside us. They moved like an adorably hairy mob! Once when we stopped, the horse beside me literally laid his head down on the butt of the horse in front of him and closed his eyes. Like just taking a quick nap on my friend’s bummie.

The last thing we did was dinner out at the Salt Kitchen. It was delicious! The decor was gorgeous and the servers were really nice, too.


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Þingvellir national park (journey to iceland, part 3)

One stop we didn’t want to rush on the Golden Circle was Þingvellir national park. We saw the clearest water under the bluest sky! Also we learned SO many fascinating things about Icelandic history. We actually got kicked out of the museum because we stayed until closing time… ‘American tourists, we are closing, please go home.’

There are only three national parks in Iceland. From Reykjavík, it was about a 45 minute drive. (You have to pay for parking.) There were warning signs for sheep crossing but we were not so lucky as to see any. There were several stunning outlooks as we hiked, and someone said it looked almost like the everglades. I have to agree — different vegetation but the layers of wetness gives the same impression. Watery inlets everywhere.

I struggled to not take pictures of every single puddle and rock. I’ve never seen the sky so blue! We could see lava striping on so many rock formations.

This was also the home of a more ‘modern’ booth/house from an Althingi in the 1300s/1500s. OYE. American history is so new. The landscape here changes so frequently.

There was a bridge over the tectonic plate break called Almannagja — so clear you could see coins people dropped deep in the water. Lots of execution points… the Althingi was a government conference, remember.

We ate in the gift shoppe and my cousin had the best barley salad she’s ever imagined.

The museum here in Þingvellir was TOP NOTCH. I cannot say enough. Wish we could have stayed longer. Icelandic history is just SO OLD compared to American. 873. Three digits for its founding year!!

Our day in March was cold and windy, but beautiful. This was a highlight of the entire week for me.


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aurora showcase (journey to iceland, part 2)

If you aren’t familiar with the aurora, how it looks in pictures and how it looks to your eyes in person are not the same. So while the shapes are exactly as I remember from last night, this is far more color saturated because of the length of time a camera lens stays open. (At least that is how the dude on the trip explained it.)

If you aren’t familiar with how the aurora looks in person, book your trip. Because seriously… there aren’t words or images to capture the experience.

Here’s what I wrote at midnight, in my amazing smash journal from Etsy:

It is midnight but I had to express my enchantment over the northern lights. It was astounding. I never would have imagined the movement the way it was. Dancing ribbons, so much fading in and out, swirling, floating. Even the boat captain called our night ‘unreal.’ We cheered and jumped, couldn’t point things our fast enough to one another.

When we got in the taxi to go back to the Air BNB, the driver asked why we were out so late. We said we’d been on a northern lights tour, and he responded that all his friends on Facebook were saying that night was the best lights show they’d seen in years. YAY! So we knew from the locals that the captain wasn’t exaggerating. It truly was a remarkable night.

The next day, we drove the golden circle. The only thing we didn’t do was the blue lagoon because that is a man-made waste water pit. We went to a natural lagoon called the Secret Lagoon and loved it.

We finally ate bola-bola-bola buns. Yum! First stop was Kerid, 6500 year old crater. Snowy so we couldn’t see the colorful water, but still a good view. This was the only place we saw with trees but they are way shorter than you’d expect. The joke goes:

“What do you do if you get lost in a forest in Iceland? Stand up.”

Super bummed that I forgot my crampons because I slipped a lot on the ice.

Next stop was Gesyir. We saw 6 or 7 eruptions and ate lunch, plus a TON of hot springs. Lots of funny signs about how the water is hot and not to touch it or you’ll have to drive 62 km to a hospital in a lot of pain. (Those signs were mostly in English because American tourists…) One of the hot springs had an underground cave. So colorful… definitely a mermaid lives there. We shopped here and then drove to Gullfoss.

Gullfoss is a waterfall between tectonic plates. SO DRAMATIC. I didn’t like the roads here with no guard rails. In the 1920s and 30s, they were trying to turn this STUNNING site into a hydroelectric plant. Basically, one woman single handedly saved it.

After Gullfoss, the Secret Lagoon was the perfect end to the day. We crossed a terrifying bridge and then found an amazing glacier lake. Unreal color. Unreal blue. My favorite accidental thing we saw for sure, by far.

Also Secret Lagoon did not watch us shower naked, so that’s a plus despite what their website says. It snowed on us while we were in the hot spring lagoon. It was a crazy contrast, and I loved it. It was intense though since it was natural, there was an actual small boiling part off to the side and occasionally hot little stripes of water would jet out and you’d have to move. It was an adventure. Magical. There were stone benches all around the side and the bottom wasn’t too uncomfortable to stand on for long periods.

I was a little rashy when we got out, but it faded fast. The run from the hot sprig to the bathroom — soaking wet in the snow — was all kinds of COLD. Our towels were covered in snow!! Rookie mistake, haha.

Also, if it’s still playing, SEE THE FUNNY SHOW AT THE HARPA: Icelandic Sagas The Greatest Hits. It was SOOO funny.


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Journey to Iceland, part 1

I am staying in Reykjavik, Iceland, for the week with my sisters and cousin. Here are some of the beautiful photo highlights. We have had amazing weather! The views are astounding.

We travelled for a week in March, picked specifically for high potential to see the Northern Lights. (See my next entry.) I programmed myself as best as I could for the time change and feel I was above average in my success. At least better than my two sisters and cousin because I was elected to drive when we arrived as the most alert!

We stayed in a Batman-theme air BNB which really was a great apartment in a slightly crappy building.

Our first day was acclimation and shopping, then a tour of the Harpa concert hall. DO NOT MISS THIS PLACE. Parking in the shopping district was weird because we Americans wanted a giant SUV and most of the cars are smaller, but we figured it out.

The view at the Harpa was amazing, but having finished the trip now — I can say the best was by far yet to come. Reykjavík has great views but the further you get into the countries, it really opens up.

The guided tour at the Harpa was guided by an opera singer. SO FUN. The walls of this crazy building are a weird 3D pattern of self-supporting glass that they couldn’t finish due to their economy collapsing so a few of them are mock-ups with pillars to support it but match the look of what they could afford.

The floors are all bluestone and the walls are Icelandic concrete painted to look like lava. The ceilings are mirrored. It’s a crazy awesome effect. We heard some orchestra people practicing, then into the main hall which seats 1600. It was set for an opera Trattoria. The walls are BRIGHT RED stained birch so you can still sea the woodgrain. The front third of the stage lifts and lowers to become an orchestra pit.

INSIDE THE WALLS there are these crazy reverberation chambers. When our guide sang a note, the sound stayed bouncing around for ten seconds!

After the Harpa, we did more shopping and ate lunch. Then we went to the grocery store where the refrigerated section was a whole room instead of fridge units. Maybe that’s European??

We also went for a run on the path by the water and saw the big metal Viking boat that you see in all the pictures.


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